Tolong artiin ya ^_^ , pakai google translate? langsung ane laporin :3
ADD THE POWER SWITCH
The last piece of preparatory bodywork is adding the power switch, a large toggle placed rear topside so it looks like a tail. Find an appropriate mouse-tail location, then drill a hole in the case big enough for the switch. If the switch has a threaded bushing and two nuts, take one nut off, insert the bushing up through the hole, and then tighten the nut back down onto the outside of the case. In some cases, a plastic screw post interferes with the tail area. If so, you can cut out the post and reconnect the top and bottom halves with tape or glue.
MOTOR AND BATTERY PLACEMENT
Now we’re ready to figure out the arrange- ment of the bigger components and cut openings for the motors. Mouse shapes vary, so you’ll use some judgment here, but the two motors should be oriented perpendicular to the centerline of the body, so the bot travels in a straight line. Also be sure to leave enough space behind the motors for the battery.Once you’ve placed the motors and battery, you’re ready to cut openings for the axles and wheels, which are simply the drive shafts and gears of the motors.You’ll want to angle the shafts coming out of the mouse body so they support the bot and set a proper speed. The steeper the angle, the less rubber will meet the road, which slows the bot down − but this is good, since many builders have complained that Mousey moves too fast. If you’re using the lively Solarbotics RM1 motors, 60 degrees is about right, as shown
Motor placement, angle, and switch placement are very important for making Mousey work properly.Use poster putty to hold the motors in place tempo- rarily. Then get down at eye level and make sure the gear “wheels” are making good, level contact with the table. Once the motors are positioned properly, glue them in place.